Beijing, Xi’an and the north

Wall, Warriors, ice festivals and imperial cities — the northern circuit, planned properly.

The northern triangle is where most first trips start: Beijing for the imperial set-pieces, Xi’an for the Terracotta Army, Pingyao for a walled town you can sleep inside. The distances are shorter than they look on a map, and almost every leg now takes a bullet train instead of a night bus.

What actually decides the quality of this circuit is order and season. Harbin in January and Dunhuang in July are both unforgettable and both require planning that nothing else on the trip does.

01
The Beijing skyline at dusk seen from a distance

Beijing: How To Arrive, Where To Sleep, And How Many Days It Deserves

Arrive at the right airport, sleep inside the Second Ring Road, and give the Wall its own day.

02
Rows of terracotta warriors in the excavation pit near Xi’an

Xi’an: The Wall, The Warriors, And How Many Days It Takes

Warriors before 09:00, the wall at sunset, three days covers it comfortably.

03
Snow sculptures at the Harbin ice and snow festival

Harbin In Winter: Ice Festival Prices And How To Stay Warm

Two nights, three if you ski. Everything else is a matter of layers.

04
The city wall and rooftops of the old town of Pingyao

Pingyao: A Walled Ming City You Can Sleep Inside

Stay inside the walls, buy the through-ticket once, and walk the full circuit at dusk.

05
Buddhist carvings in the limestone cliffs at Longmen near Luoyang

Luoyang: Longmen Grottoes And The Peony Two Weeks

One and a half days, or two if you come for the peonies in late April.

06
Restored stone wall running along a forested mountain ridge

The Great Wall: Badaling, Mutianyu Or Jinshanling?

Badaling for ease, Mutianyu for most people, Jinshanling for anyone who has already done the wall once.

07
The terraces and roofs of the Forbidden City in Beijing

3 Days in Beijing: The Order That Saves You Half A Day

One day on the central axis, one on the Wall, one in the south. No backtracking.

08
The ranks of terracotta soldiers inside the pit near Xi’an

2 Days in Xi’an: The Buried Army East, The Walls In Town

Sights east on day one, everything within the walls on day two.

09
Roofline of the Hall of Supreme Harmony inside Beijing’s Forbidden City

5 Days In Beijing: Beyond The Imperial Centre

Five days means you can group the north of the city on separate days and stop commuting.

10
Lit food stalls and hanging lanterns in Xi’an’s Muslim Quarter at dusk

4 Days In Xi’an: Terracotta Army Plus The Things People Skip

The Warriors deserve a morning, not a day — which is why the rest fits in four.

11
The Ming city wall of Xi’an at dusk

Beijing To Xi’an: 4h30 By Train, And The Station Trap

Book to Xi’an North, then ride metro line 2 straight into the walled city.

12
A platform under the roof of a large Chinese railway station

Xi’an To Chengdu: Three Hours Through The Qinling Mountains

Three hours, ¥263.50, and the best mountain scenery of any Chinese high-speed route.

13
Cyclists riding along the top of the restored Xi’an city wall

Xi’an To Shanghai: Train Or Plane, And What Each Really Costs

Fly when your time is short. Take the train when you want the day, not the airport.

14
Icy-framed European-style buildings along a snowy pedestrian street in Harbin

Harbin To Beijing: Night Sleeper Or High-Speed Day Train?

Sleeper down if you can sleep on trains; high-speed if you cannot.