A platform under the roof of a large Chinese railway station

Xi’an To Chengdu: Three Hours Through The Qinling Mountains

Photo: N509FZ · CC BY-SA 4.0

The line that punched a tunnel under the mountains in 2017. From ¥263.50, three to four hours, and a landscape that changes twice on the way.

Before 2017 this was an overnight train, a twelve-hour ordeal, or a flight over mountains that are frequently closed by weather. The high-speed line changed it into a three-hour hop and, unexpectedly, one of the prettiest rail journeys in the country: the route bores through the Qinling range in a series of tunnels, coming out into bamboo and terraced hillsides that look nothing like the dry north you left.

It is also the natural way to join the two most rewarding non-coastal cities in China. Terracotta Army and the Ming wall at one end; pandas, tea houses and Sichuan food at the other.

Trains and prices

ServiceJourney timeSecond classNotes
G train, fastest3h – 3h30¥263.50Two or three a day, worth targeting
G train, stopping3h30 – 4h30¥263.50Most departures fall in this band
D train4h30 – 5h30¥205Cheaper, still daylight
Flight, Xianyang → Shuangliu or Tianfu1h30 in the air¥500 – ¥1,100Airport time at both ends cancels the gain

Second class is ¥263.50 on the G services and it is the same seat whichever departure you take. The D trains at ¥205 are slower but not slow, and they often have better availability on the day.

Ends and stations

At the Xi’an end you want Xi’an North, which is on metro line 2 with a direct run to Bell Tower. At the Chengdu end, most services use Chengdu East, connected by lines 2 and 7 and about 20 minutes from Chunxi Road. A few continue to Chengdu South, which is smaller and closer to the airport side of town.

Allow three hours between a flight and a train if you are connecting through Xi’an, and remember that Xianyang airport is 40 km north-west of the city. Chengdu has two airports now, Shuangliu and the much larger Tianfu, and they are on opposite sides of the city — check the three-letter code before booking a taxi.

A narrow Chengdu street with food stalls and lanterns
Chengdu’s side streets are where the city happens: a bowl of dan dan noodles costs ¥12–18. · Photo: Daderot, CC0

Why the train beats the plane here

Both airports are far from their city centres, security takes an hour, and the flight itself is only 90 minutes. Door to door, flying this route takes five to six hours against four for the train, and the train departs from two places you can reach by metro in twenty minutes.

The other argument is the view. Between Xi’an and Hanzhong the line runs through country that is hard to reach any other way: river gorges, tunnelled hillsides, villages on terraces. Sit on the left leaving Xi’an for the longer stretches of open valley.

Altitude and weather barely register on this line, unlike the routes further west: both ends sit between 400 and 500 metres, and snow on the passes is rare enough to make the news. What changes is the cooking. You leave a city of lamb, wheat noodles and black vinegar and arrive somewhere that puts chilli and Sichuan pepper into everything, breakfast included.

One practical note on bags. Both stations run left-luggage counters near the ticket hall for ¥10–20 a bag per day, which matters if Xi’an is a stop on the way to the pandas and you want a free afternoon without a suitcase. Chengdu East also has a hotel desk for the times a connection goes wrong.

If you have the time, Hanzhong in the middle is worth a stop: a small city with a Han-dynasty heritage, a decent museum and hotel rooms at ¥200–350. It splits the journey and gives you the mountains at ground level rather than from a window.

Questions people actually ask

Is the Xi’an to Chengdu train scenic?

The stretch through the Qinling mountains is, particularly the section around Hanzhong where the line follows river valleys. It is not a panoramic railway — tunnels take up a good part of it — but it is far more interesting than the flat eastern lines.

Should I fly instead?

Only if the train is sold out. Both airports are a long way from their cities and the flight is 90 minutes, so the door-to-door times end up close to four hours for the train against five or six for the plane.

Can I break the journey in Hanzhong?

Yes, and it is a good idea if you have a spare day. Hanzhong has hotels from ¥200, a Han-dynasty museum and the start of the old Shu roads into Sichuan. Buy two separate tickets rather than trying to stop over on one.

Journey times on the Xi’an–Chengdu line vary with the number of intermediate stops; the 3-hour figures are the fastest non-stop services.